Steps to solder components in order for VFD3 clock ____________________________________________ Please look the board over carefully and read the instructions and parts list to familiarize yourself with the assembly procedure before you begin. Please also familiarize yourself with transistor orientation: looking at the front (flat side), the three leads are, left to right: emitter, base, collector. A diode has a + and - side, and IC's are marked on one end with a small indented "notch". The IC sockets are also notched. Electrolytic (cylindrical shape) capacitors have a + & - side . Solder all components on the bottom of the board where possible. For transistors, I find it helpful to let the transistor stand up above the board rather than pushing the leads through; this lets the transistor chip inside the case standoff from the heat of the soldering iron. I also find it helps to solder one lead at a time, pausing in between to allow the transistor to cool for a minute. This also applies to the leds, particularly the RGB leds, which are sensitive. Please note that some extra components are silkscreened on the bottom layer board, these are for a different configuration and don't apply to this build, so there will be some "missing" components. Part 1 : The VFD bottom layer board (power supply board) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Solder components in this order: Transformer - Primary side is next to fuse, solder leads to the top as well as the bottom. Fuse Four pin jumper - solder to the square marked with V1/V2 - only necessary to switch between 120VAC (U.S.) and 240VAC (some other countries) - If this is not necessary, you may solder a small jumper to the appropriate holes (120 or 240, marked as V1 & V2) to make a permanent connection. D8 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION D9 - 1N4001 diode P1 - 200 ohm potentiometer, set counter-clockwise B1 - solder a jumper wire from the negative (marked - with four holes) to the adjoining hole marked with circles in silkscreening. Six pin connector - marked "output" Be careful to orient this correctly - the points marked on the bottom layer correspond to the same points on the top layer, labeled "GND, HZ, BB, 5VDC, -6VDC and ~35VDC" These will be the six connections to the six - wire "bus" that will connect to the top layer board. It is very important, of course, that these six connecting wires are connected correctly to the corresponding connections on the top layer pc board 2nd four pin header/jumper - marked "HZ" & "1PPS" - set jumper on "HZ" for mains frequency timing. R10 - 100K resistor C6 - 1,000uF, 25V cap C7 - 470uF, 50V cap D3, D7 - 1N4001 diodes C3 - .01uF (103) R5 - 10K resistor Q12 - 2N3904 NPN transistor R6 - 1K resistor 7805 - 5V regulator Attach the heat sink to the regulator D2 - 1N4001 diode C2 - 100 uF, 6.3-25V cap R3 - 470 ohm resistor LED - 5VDC indicator (Red) white wire to NEUTRAL black wire to HOT Connect these to an AC power cord, and plug in. The led should light. Test for the correct voltages at the six pin connector, GND to 60HZ should read at ~2.5VDC, GND to the others should read as indicated. BATTERY BACKUP STEP (OPTIONAL) -------------------------------------------------------- If you are installing the battery backup option at this time: LED - BB (small blue) R8 - 10K resistor D6 - 1N4001 diode 78L05 regulator 5VDC relay Solder a jumper across the connection for 5VDC on the board near the battery clip area. Battery Clip - solder to + & - Part 3 : The VFD3 top layer board (logic board) components ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Solder the six - wire connector to the connection point marked "input" outlined on the board. Be careful to orient this correctly - the points marked on the bottom layer correspond to the same points on the top layer. This should be soldered to the bottom of the board. After connecting this, plug the cord back in and test for the correct voltages on the top layer at the connecting points. U5 - 28 pin IC socket - ORIENT CORRECTLY U7 - 16 pin IC socket - NOTE ORIENTATION R15, R16, R17 - 100 ohm resistors R1, R2, R3, R4, R67 - 2.2K resistors S1, S2, S3, S4 - push buttons C1 - .01 uF (103) cap - NOTE: IF USING BATTERY BACKUP OPTION, THIS SHOULD BE A 1,000uF 6.3V cap instead C2 - 10uF (electrolytic) C3 - .01 uF (103) cap R27, R28, R99, R6, R7, R9, R10, R12, R23, R25, R30, R31, R29, R35, R33, R38, R37, R40, R41, R44, R43, R47, R46, R50, R49, R53, R52, R55 - 10K resistors D1, D2 - 1N4001 diodes R5, R8, R11, R24, R26, R32, R36, R39, R42, R45, R48, R51, R54 - 47K resistors R13, R21 - 1K resistors - don't solder the double hole side yet - it will be soldered to the led lead Q39, Q40, Q13, Q42, Q44, Q49, Q51, Q53, Q54, Q57, Q58, Q61, Q14, Q48, Q47 - 2N3904 NPN transistors Q46, Q45, Q6, Q60, Q59, Q56, Q55, Q52, Q50, Q62, Q43, Q41, Q5 - 2N3906 PNP transistors Relay - 5VDC PIEZO BUZZER - in the center of the board - if polarized, the positive should be on the right, when viewing the board with the printing right side up. Now, test the digit drivers by plugging the cord in (with the boards connected) and using a jumper wire to connect pin #1 on the 28 pin socket (U5) to pin # 25. This should actuate the relay, supplying ~30VDC to the board's drivers. Use a jumper wire to connect pin #20 on U5 to pin #23, then test for ~30VDC at the anode hole of the first tube space (pin hole #2). This is the one on the right when looking at the front of the board (ones seconds count) This should read about 30-35VDC relative to ground (0VDC) or pin # 19 on U5. Do the same after connecting pin #20 on U5 to pin #24, and test for HV at the second anode hole. Continue to the next (third anode hole) by connecting pin #20 on U5 to pin #15. Next connect pin #20 to pin#16 and test for HV at the fourth anode hole. Connect pin #20 to pin #17 to test the fifth anode hole. Connect pin #20 to pin#18 to test the sixth. Disconnect power and remove the jumper wires from the IC socket. Carefully insert the IC's into the sockets, noting proper orientation. You should now be ready to begin soldering in your tubes. Part 4 : The VFD3 top layer board (logic board) VFD tubes, colons, RGB leds ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The holes for the solder - in VFD tubes are arranged with the tubes facing the edge of the board. You only need to solder pins #1 & #11 to check for function. The other pins should make contact well enough to tell that the tube is working. All six tubes must be soldered to pins #1 & #11 to test (the filaments are in series) After soldering these pins, when the board is plugged in to power again it should light up some segments. Connect a voltmeter set on DC voltage to pins #1 & 11 on the sixth tube (left) and adjust P1 clockwise until this reads between .5VDC & 1VDC. This way you can be sure the tube is working before you solder the entire thing. They're difficult to remove so it's better to know if it works before soldering it entirely. The green leds are used for colons, they can be soldered into the holes inside the area marked for them in between the tubes. The leads can be bent and turned forward to display the round way. The RGB leds can be added by bending the leads to face backwards (please see the drawing in RGBled.jpeg), so the led fits into the hole under the tube and the leads solder to the cathode holes (K's) and (anodes) R, G and B