Steps to solder components in order for OSC7.1 ____________________________________________ Please look the board over carefully and read the instructions and parts list to familiarize yourself with the assembly procedure before you begin. IC's are marked on one end with a small indented "notch". The IC sockets are also notched. The ESP32 DEV board faces with the mini USB port towards the edge of the board. Electrolytic (cylindrical shape) capacitors have a + & - side . Please note that there will be some components silkscreened on the board that are "legacy" and no longer used in this version. Solder all components on the bottom of the board, and insert the wires through holes & solder to bottom of board. Part 1 : High Voltage supply *******If you are building the HV version (1,000+VDC) you only need to make one jumper connection, HV5. *******If you are building the LV version (600+VDC) you will need to connect jumpers LV1, LV2, and LV3. D1 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R1 - 10 ohm , 3 W resistor ( brown black black ) D2 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION C1 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - C2 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - P2 - 1M ohm potentiometer (105), DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P1 - 1M ohm potentiometer , DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P3 - (top adjust) - 50Kohm (503) or 47Kohm (473) potentiometer. This is the same physical size as P1 & P2 R2 - For the HV version - 1M 1/2 W ** For the LV version - 470K ohm, ½ W ( yellow purple yellow ) resistor Neon bulb (HV indicator) R3 - 10M ohm resistor ( brown black blue ) F1 - fuse or fuse holder & bus fuse. 4 pin jumper - only necessary to switch between 120VAC (U.S.) and 240VAC (some other countries) - If this is not necessary, you may solder a small jumper to the appropriate holes (120 or 240, marked) to make a permanent connection. Solder 8” of ~18 gauge wire with black insulation to Fuse input marked "HOT" (left side, end of Fuse closer to X1). Solder 8” of ~18 gauge wire with white insulation to NEUTRAL Part 2 : Low voltage supply & wave shaper, relay control S3 - tactile pushbutton switch ( toggle display on / off ) Relay - it only fits correctly one way Rfilament - (next to S3) - this will be determined by the type of CRT used. Generally, 4.7 ohm, 3 watt works for many CRTs, however, for some types a different value may be used, i.e., some European types like DG7-6 may need a 10 ohm, 3 watt. When you first connect your CRT and power it on, you should read the voltage across the filaments (heaters) and determine if this falls within the specs for your CRT type. If the voltage is too high, use a higher value resistance for Rfilament to lower CRT filament voltage. This can be different depending on the individual crt, some experimenting may be necessary to find the optimal value, but in most cases it's okay to start by using the 4.7 ohm 3 watt resistor included. R33 - 2.2 K ohm , ¼ watt ( red red red ) Q7 - 2N3904 NPN transistor ORIENT correctly - emitter should be next to Q7 R22 - 10 K ohm , ¼ W , ( brown black orange ) B1 - full wave rectifier bridge NOTE ORIENTATION ( it has - & + ) R27 - 100K ohm , ¼ W ( brown black yellow ) C3 - 1,000 uF, 16 V+ cap NOTE ORIENTATION R30 - 1K ohm, ¼ W D3 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R28 - 10 K ohm, ¼ W ( brown black orange ) Q8 - 2N3904 transistor , collector should be at Q8 D4 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION P6 (side adjust) - 50K ohm side adjust potentiometer (x centering) These don’t go all the way through the holes, ok to solder on top of board P7 (side adjust) - 50K ohm pot (y center) C4 - .01 uF (103) cap C5 - 100 uF, 6.3 V cap NOTE ORIENTATION. R29 - 470 ohm , ¼ W or 10K for less brightness 5mm (large) LED - NOTE ORIENTATION, long lead is anode ( + ) 7805 - 5V regulator NOTE ORIENTATION Part 3 Q3 - STX13005 NPN transistor R99 - For a 5UP1 crt - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R4 - For a 5UP1 crt - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R6 - 180 K ohm resistor (brown grey yellow) R8 - 180 K ohm resistor (brown grey yellow) P4 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (503) (top adjust, next to Q1) (ok to solder on top of board) Q4 - STX13005 NPN transistor R10 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R11 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) Q5 - STX13005 NPN transistor P5 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (top adjust) (ok to solder on top of board) Q6 - STX13005 NPN transistor R23 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R24 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R7 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R9 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R12 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R13 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) C6 - .1 u F (104) capacitor C7 - .1 u F (104) capacitor C8 - .1 u F (104) capacitor U2 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R14 - 47K ohm resistor R16 - 47K ohm resistor U3 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R15 - 47K ohm resistor R17 - 47K ohm resistor U4 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION two 19 - pin straight pin headers (female) for the ESP32 DEV board R31 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) R32 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) S1 - tactile pushbutton switch ( fast set ) S2 - tactile pushbutton switch ( slow set ) Transformer - Primary (1,2,3,4) side is next to fuse, secondaries (5,6,7,8) should line up w/ the holes next to the edge - the transformer primaries on AN0109 are red - black primaries and blue - green secondaries. The first red primary wire goes to the holes connected to the neutral, under the word "Trans" the second and third (black & red) wires in the middle go to the holes in the middle connection under the word "Primary" the third and last is the black wire that goes to the hole under "240VAC" These are marked with small circles on the board in silkscreen. Connect the white wire to the AC power cord white (neutral) and the black wire to black (hot) When it’s plugged in, the LED should light. Test for low voltage at (5VDCOUT) (next to Rfilament) Test the relay control by inserting a jumper wire in pin # 19 and pin # 27 of the ESP32 socket. The relay should make a small click noise. ******** (HV Version only) If using the Antek AS-05TC200 high voltage transformer, Connect the primaries in parallel (reds tied together and blacks together) Reds connect to HV1 on the board (middle connection of the low voltage transformer primaries) Connect the blacks to HV2 on the board Connect the white of the first 200VAC secondary to the yellow of the 2nd one. This will connect the two secondaries in series to make one 400VAC. Connect the yellow of primary 1 to HV3 Connect the white of primary 2 to HV4 You can also for high voltage by inserting a jumper wire in pin # 19 and pin # 27 of the ESP32 socket. **************************************** PART 4, wires from the board to the crt socket : Use 20 gauge wire , 8 “ lengths , (or longer depending on where you want to mount crt , it will work ok with lengths of 12”) Solder a wire to K (P3 wiper) for the CRT cathode Wire to F (wiper of P1) for the CRT focus Wire to A (wiper of P2) for the CRT anode Wire to G (next to Neon bulb) for CRT control grid Wire to X1 for CRT X1 plate Wire to X2 for CRT X2 plate Wire to Y1 for CRT Y1 plate Wire to Y2 for CRT Y2 plate Wire to f (near to R1) for CRT filament Wire to f for other CRT filament Part 6 - bringing the crt to life Ok now you should be ready to fire up that crt , set P1 - P5 in the middle position of their adjustment . Now set P7 (side adjust) all the way to the left (counter clockwise), set P6 (side adjust) all the way right (clockwise). Use a short piece of hookup wire that will fit snugly in the IC socket 's pin sockets, and connect pin # 19 on the ESP 32 socket (in line pin header) to pin # 27 on ESP32 socket. Plug in the AC power cord and in a few minutes, hopefully you will begin to see a blob or dot in about the middle of the screen. Adjust P1 until the spot is as round as it can get. Adjust P2 until it is as sharp as it can get . P3 (brightness) may also need to be adjusted to get the optimal focus. Readjust P1 Unplug the cord . Now plug in the two IC’s marked “4132“ into the sockets U2 & U3, being careful to NOTE the orientation (the notch should be "up", or towards the middle of the board) Plug the AC power cord back in. Adjust P6 & P7 (side adjust) to their middle positions . You should see the spot again , center it & readjust P1 & P2 for the best focus / roundest spot Now unplug the power cord , and insert the IC marked 12f629 into socket U4. Plug power cord back in, and when the spot reappears, watch for it to move a slight bit left / right up / down. This means the shifter is working. Unplug the power again , and insert the ESP32 DEv board, and plug back in and follow the instructions for setup. If you're just using manual time set (no wifi) just press and hold "slow set" button for a few seconds until the relay clicks and the neon bulb lights. The clock screen should appear, but may need adjustment for size (P4 & P5) and / or brightness, focus and astig. It may also need to be centered using P6 & P7.