Steps to solder components in order for OSC7.0 ____________________________________________ Please look the board over carefully and read the instructions and parts list to familiarize yourself with the assembly procedure before you begin. Please also familiarize yourself with transistor orientation: looking at the front (flat side), the three leads are, left to right: emitter, base, collector. All the transistors are facing the same way on the board, with all the emitters closer to the IC’s. A diode has a + and - side, and IC's are marked on one end with a small indented "notch". The IC sockets are also notched. Electrolytic (cylindrical shape) capacitors have a + & - side . Please note that there will be some components silkscreened on the board that are "legacy" and no longer used in this version. Solder all components on the bottom of the board, and insert the wires through holes & solder to bottom of board. Part 1 : High Voltage supply D1 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R1 - 10 ohm , 3 W resistor ( brown black black ) D3 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION C1 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - C4 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - P2 - 1M ohm potentiometer (105), DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P1 - 1M ohm potentiometer , DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P3 - (top adjust) - 50Kohm (503) or 47Kohm (473) potentiometer. This is the same physical size as P1 & P2 R3 - 470K ohm, ½ W ( yellow purple yellow ) resistor Neon bulb (HV indicator) R37 - 10M ohm resistor ( brown black blue ) F1 - fuse or fuse holder & bus fuse. 4 pin jumper - only necessary to switch between 120VAC (U.S.) and 240VAC (some other countries) - If this is not necessary, you may solder a small jumper to the appropriate holes (120 or 240, marked) to make a permanent connection. Solder 8” of ~18 gauge wire with black insulation to Fuse input marked "HOT" (left side, end of Fuse closer to X1). Solder 8” of ~18 gauge wire with white insulation to NEUTRAL Transformer - Primary (1,2,3,4) side is next to fuse, secondaries (5,6,7,8) should line up w/ the holes next to the edge - the transformer primaries on AN0109 are red - black primaries and blue - green secondaries. The first red primary wire goes to the holes connected to the neutral, under the word "Trans" the second and third (black & red) wires in the middle go to the holes in the middle connection under the word "Primary" the third and last is the black wire that goes to the hole under "240VAC" These are marked with small circles on the board in silkscreen. Blue green secondaries connect to "T1" & "T2" also marked with small circles. Insert a temporary jumper wire to connect the relay (not relay2) holes as shown in jumper.jpg. Connect black wire to an AC cord hot and white wire to neutral, plug into wall outlet & test for HV Neon light should be on . Test for ~300 VDC at C6 - and R8 + , with C6 negative & R8 positive Test for ~300VDC at G (next to neon) , and C6 -, with G negative & C6 - positive If this step checks ok, disconnect the power cord & proceed to Part 2. Part 2 : Low voltage supply & wave shaper, relay control S3 - tactile pushbutton switch ( toggle display on / off ) Relay - it only fits correctly one way Rfilament - (next to S3) - this will be determined by the type of CRT used. Generally, 4.7 ohm, 3 watt works for many CRTs, however, for some types a different value may be used, i.e., some European types like DG7-6 may need a 10 ohm, 3 watt. When you first connect your CRT and power it on, you should read the voltage across the filaments (heaters) and determine if this falls within the specs for your CRT type. If the voltage is too high, use a higher value resistance for Rfilament to lower CRT filament voltage. This can be different depending on the individual crt, some experimenting may be necessary to find the optimal value, but in most cases it's okay to start by using the 4.7 ohm 3 watt resistor included. R38 - 2.2 K ohm , ¼ watt ( red red red ) Q7 - 2N3904 NPN transistor ORIENT correctly - emitter is marked "E" R33 - 10 K ohm , ¼ W , ( brown black orange ) B1 - full wave rectifier bridge NOTE ORIENTATION ( it has - & + ) R14 - 100K ohm , ¼ W ( brown black yellow ) C6 - 1,000 uF, 16 V+ cap NOTE ORIENTATION R29 - 1K ohm, ¼ W D56 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R27 - 10 K ohm, ¼ W ( brown black orange ) Q8 - 2N3904 transistor - Emitter is marked "E" D9 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION P6 (side adjust) - 50K ohm side adjust potentiometer (x centering) These don’t go all the way through the holes, ok to solder on top of board P7 (side adjust) - 50K ohm pot (y center) C22 - .01 uF (103) cap C10 - 100 uF, 10 V cap NOTE ORIENTATION. If installing BB option, use the 1,000uF 6.3 volt cap instead R26 - 470 ohm , ¼ W or 10K for less brightness 5mm (large) LED - NOTE ORIENTATION, long lead is anode ( + ) 7805 - 5V regulator NOTE ORIENTATION D57 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION When it’s plugged in, the LED should light. Test for low voltage at C33 (+5V), right side should be negative, left side 5V positive. Test the relay control by inserting a jumper wire in pin # 19 and pin # 27 of the ESP32 socket. The relay will click and the neon bulb should light. If this checks ok, go to part 3. If you got this far with it, congrats, you now have a high voltage supply, low voltage supply, wave shaping circuit and relay control circuit. The rest of the build should be easy : ) . Part 3 Q1 - MPSA44 NPN transistor R99 - For a DG7-32 crt- 330K ohm resistor ( orange orange yellow ) , For a 2BP1 crt - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R4 - For a DG7-32 crt- 330K ohm resistor ( orange orange yellow ) , For a 2BP1 crt - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R6 - 180 K ohm resistor (brown grey yellow) R8 - 180 K ohm resistor (brown grey yellow) P4 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (503) (top adjust, next to Q1) (ok to solder on top of board) Q2 - MPSA44 NPN transistor R10 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R9 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) Q3 - MPSA44 NPN transistor P5 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (top adjust) (ok to solder on top of board) Q4 - MPSA44 NPN transistor R13 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R31 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R5 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R11 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R7 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R12 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) C11 - .1 u F (104) capacitor C222 - (the one next to U4) .1 u F (104) capacitor C33 - .1 u F (104) capacitor U5 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R25 - 47K ohm resistor R22- 47K ohm resistor U4 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R24 - 47K ohm resistor R23 - 47K ohm resistor U6 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION two 19 - pin straight pin headers (female) for the ESP32 DEV board R20 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) R21 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) S1 - tactile pushbutton switch ( fast set ) S2 - tactile pushbutton switch ( slow set ) PART 4, wires from the board to the crt socket : Use 20 gauge wire , 8 “ lengths , (or longer depending on where you want to mount crt , it will work ok with lengths of 12”) Solder a wire to K (P3 wiper) for the CRT cathode Wire to F (wiper of P1) for the CRT focus Wire to A (wiper of P2) for the CRT anode Wire to G (next to Neon bulb) for CRT control grid Wire to X1 for CRT X1 plate Wire to X2 for CRT X2 plate Wire to Y1 for CRT Y1 plate Wire to Y2 for CRT Y2 plate Wire to f (near to R1) for CRT filament Wire to f for other CRT filament For a DG7/32 crt: DG7-32 pin board 1 f 2 G 3 K 4 F 5 nc 6 Y2 7 Y1 8 A 9 X2 10 X1 11 nc 12 f pin 1 & 12 - filament voltage across these should be 4-6VAC Read all other pins referenced to ground (0VDC): PIN VOLTAGE 2 ~ -300VDC 3 ~ -295VDC 4 ~-150VDC 6,7,8,9,10 ~150-250VDC For the DG7-32, R99 & R4 = 330K, R6 & R8 = 220K 6Lo1i pinout: Pin board 1 f (filament/heater) 2 K (cathode) 3 G (grid) 4 F (focus) 5 NC (no connection) 6 NC 7 X2 8 X1 9 A (anode) 10 Y1 11 Y2 12 NC 13 NC 14 f Voltage measurements, using ground (0 volts) as reference (tab of 7805 regulator is good point for ground contact) From ground to pin should be: 2 (K) = -295VDC 3 (G) = -300VDC 4 (F) = -150VDC 7 - 11 (X1, X2, A, Y1, Y2) = 150VDC to 250VDC voltage measured across f - f should be about 4 - 6VAC These measurements are approximate, but should be close. For the 6Lo1i, R99 & R4 = 220K, R6 & R8 = 180K Part 6 - bringing the crt to life PLEASE NOTE that it's important to complete these steps before adding the gps or wifi module (if adding this option) Ok now you should be ready to fire up that crt , set P1 - P5 in the middle position of their adjustment . Now set P7 (side adjust) all the way to the left (counter clockwise), set P6 (side adjust) all the way right (clockwise). Use a short piece of hookup wire that will fit snugly in the IC socket 's pin sockets, and connect pin # 19 on the ESP 32 socket (in line pin header) to pin # 27 on ESP32 socket. Plug in the AC power cord and in a few minutes, hopefully you will begin to see a blob or dot in about the middle of the screen. Adjust P1 until the spot is as round as it can get. Adjust P2 until it is as sharp as it can get . P3 (brightness) may also need to be adjusted to get the optimal focus. Readjust P1 Unplug the cord . Now plug in the two IC’s marked “4132“ into the sockets U5 & U4, being careful to NOTE the orientation (the notch should be "up", or towards the middle of the board) Plug the AC power cord back in. Adjust P6 & P7 (side adjust) to their middle positions . You should see the spot again , center it & readjust P1 & P2 for the best focus / roundest spot Now unplug the power cord , and insert the IC marked 12f629 into socket U6. Plug power cord back in, and when the spot reappears, watch for it to move a slight bit left / right up / down. This means the shifter is working. Unplug the power again , and insert the ESP32 DEv board, and plug back in and follow the instructions for setup. If you're just using manual time set (no wifi) just press and hold "slow set" button for a few seconds until the relay clicks and the neon bulb lights. The clock screen should appear, but may need adjustment for size (P4 & P5) and / or brightness, focus and astig. It may also need to be centered using P6 & P7.