Steps to solder components in order for OSC 4.5 ____________________________________________ Please look the board over carefully and read the instructions and parts list to familiarize yourself with the assembly procedure before you begin. All the transistors except Q11 are facing the same way on the board, with all the emitters closer to the IC’s (usually marked with "E"). A diode has a positive and negative side, and IC's are marked on one end with a small indented "notch". The IC sockets are also notched. Electrolytic (cylindrical shape) capacitors have a + & - side . Solder all components on the bottom of the board, and insert the wires through holes & solder to bottom of board. Part 1 : High Voltage supply ********NOTE - for the LOW VOLTAGE (600VDC) board configuration: (1)Use a small length of wire lead to connect the two holes marked with "LV1" near to LV3 (a resistor lead is okay to use here) as indicated by the line. (2)Use a small length of wire lead to connect the two holes marked with "LV2" near to "HV3"(a resistor lead is okay to use here) as indicated by the line. (3)Use a small length of wire lead to connect the two holes marked with "LV3" in between D1 & D3 Please refer to the drawings, OSC4.5LowVoltConf.jpg & OSC4.5LowVoltConf(2).jpg for an illustration. ********* ************NOTE - for the HIGH voltage (1,000VDC) configuration, only one jumper connection is needed- the holes marked with "HV3" must be connected using a wire lead as indicated by the line. ********************* D1 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION - R1 - 10 ohm , 3 W resistor ( brown black black ) D3 - 1N4007 diode NOTE ORIENTATION C1 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - C4 - 4.7 uF , 450 V capacitor , NOTE ORIENTATION + - P2 - 1M ohm potentiometer (105), DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET, it will be soldered when the wire is connected. P1 - 1M ohm potentiometer , DON’T SOLDER WIPER YET P3 - (top adjust) - 50Kohm (503) or 47Kohm (473) potentiometer. This is the same physical size as P1 & P2 R82 - Low voltage configuration - 470K ohm, ½ W ( yellow purple yellow ) resistor High voltage configuration - 1M, 1/2 W resistor Neon bulb (HV indicator) R111 - 10M ohm resistor ( brown black blue ) FUSE - 500ma, 250V fuse or fuse holder & bus fuse. 4 pin jumper - only necessary to switch between 120VAC (U.S.) and 240VAC (some other countries) - If this is not necessary, you may solder a small jumper to the appropriate holes (120 or 240, marked) to make a permanent connection. Transformer (on board, not the larger one - for LV, this is the only one) - Primary (1,2,3,4) side is next to fuse, secondaries (5,6,7,8) should line up w/ the holes next to the edge Solder the length of ~18 gauge wire with black insulation to Fuse input marked "HOT" (left side, end of Fuse closer to X1). Solder the length of ~18 gauge wire with white insulation to NEUTRAL If you are adding the battery backup option, do the following: Relay2 - the coil goes toward C1 & C4 78L05 - 100ma 5VDC regulator R102 - 10K ohm resistor D223 - 1N4001 diode LED - note orientation (next to 78L05) 9VDC IN - leads of 9V battery connector, note + & - (it may be helpful to leave this off until after the build is done) Part 2 : Low voltage supply & wave shaper, relay control If you are adding the gps module or wifi module (if included), you may now solder the five pin connector behind Relay2, with the holes facing up. If you are adding your own gps module, you may want to use individual connecting wires, depending on the orientation of your gps module connecting points. !!!!! Please note that when soldering the pin header to the GPS module, extreme care should be used, as the module is very sensitive to heat & static. I recommend using a low wattage soldering iron 30 watt or so and a grounding wrist strap. !!!!! S3 - tactile pushbutton switch ( toggle display on / off ) Relay - ORIENT CORRECTLY - it only fits correctly one way R112 - 2.2 K ohm , ¼ watt ( red red red ) Q7 - 2N3904 NPN transistor ORIENT correctly - emitter should be next to E R113 - 10 K ohm , ¼ W , ( brown black orange ) B1 - full wave rectifier bridge NOTE ORIENTATION ( it has - & + ) R90 - 100K ohm , ¼ W ( brown black yellow ) C6 - 1,000 uF, 16 V+ cap NOTE ORIENTATION R101 - 1K ohm , ¼ W D56 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION R99 - 10 K ohm , ¼ W ( brown black orange ) Q8 - 2N3904 transistor D9 - 1N4001 diode NOTE ORIENTATION Rfilament - 4.7 ohm 3 watt resistor P6 (side adjust) - 50K ohm side adjust potentiometer (x centering) P7 (side adjust) - 50K ohm pot (y center) C22 - .01 uF (103) cap C10 - 100 uF, 10 V cap NOTE ORIENTATION. If installing battery backup option, use the 1,000uF 6.3 volt cap instead R98 - 470 ohm , ¼ W or 10K for less brightness LED - NOTE ORIENTATION , long lead is anode ( + ) 7805 - 5V regulator NOTE ORIENTATION When it’s plugged in, the LED should light. Test for low voltage at C44 (+5V), right side should be negative, left side 5V positive. Test for ~ 2.5VDC at pin #25 on U8. Test the relay control by carefully touching a jumper wire to V1 and the positive side (left side) of C44. The relay will click. If this checks ok, go to part 3. Part 3 Q11 - MPSA92 (or KSP92) PNP transistor NOTE : This is the only transistor on the board that the flat side faces opposite of the rest (the collector is closer to the IC’s) R110 - For the low voltage configuration, use the 47K ohm resistor (yellow purple orange) and for the high voltage (1,000VDC) use the 13K resistor R109 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R88 - For low voltage, use a bare wire (lead), and for high voltage, use a 470K resistor **Please note that there are two of R88 on the board, and this is the one next to Q10.** R108 - For low voltage (600VDC) - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) and for high voltage (1,000VDC) use 2.2K Q10 - MPSA44 (or ksp44) NPN transistor Q1 - STX13005 NPN transistor R99 - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R83 - 220K ohm ( red red yellow ) R89 - 180 K ohm resistor (brown grey yellow) R104 - 180 K ohm resistor (brown grey yellow) P4 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (503) (top adjust, next to Q1) (ok to solder on top of board) Q2 - STX13005 NPN transistor R84 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R87 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) Q3 - STX13005 NPN transistor P5 - 50 K ohm, .12W potentiometer (top adjust) (ok to solder on top of board) Q4 - STX13005 NPN transistor R106 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R107 - 10 K ohm resistor (brown black orange) R86 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R88 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) **This is the second R88, next to c222** R103 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) R105 - 4.7 K ohm resistor (yellow purple red) C11 - .1 u F (104) capacitor C222- .1 u F (104) capacitor C33 - .1 u F (104) capacitor C44 - .1 u F (104) capacitor C55 - .1 u F (104) capacitor (if installing battery backup, use the 1,000uF, 6.3 Volt cap instead) U18 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R97 - 47K ohm resistor R94- 47K ohm resistor U17 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION R96 - 47K ohm resistor R95 - 47K ohm resistor U20 - 8 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION U16 - 20 pin IC socket NOTE ORIENTATION D77 - 1N4001 diode U8 - 28 pin IC socket R114 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) R92 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) R93 - 2.2 K ohm resistor ( red red red ) S1 - tactile pushbutton switch ( fast set ) S2 - tactile pushbutton switch ( slow set ) R Filament - 4.7 ohm, 3 watt This can vary depending on the individual crt, some experimenting may be necessary to find the optimal value. At this point, your board should be fully populated, and it's okay to connect the hot & neutral to AC cord and test for low voltage. The led should light and there should be about 5VDC which you can test for at "5VDC OUT" on the edge near the transformer. The high voltage transformer (269EX) has several leads that will not be used, and can be capped off: the greens (secondary) and the red/yellow stripe wire (center tap) and the grey (primary) should all be capped as they are not used. Please refer to the drawings that are marked up for these connections, as they are on the bottom of the board. Solder a black insulation wire to the pads indicated "hot, HV transformer supplY" on the board bottom view. This will connnect to the black wire on the 269EX (primary) Solder a white insulation wire to the pads marked "neutral, HV trans" on the board bottom, and connect this to the white wire of the 269EX. Solder a wire to the pads marked "HV1" and "HV2" on the bottom of the board as shown in the bottom view, and connect these to the red wires on the 269EX (high voltage secondary) Remember to connect "HV3" as shown using a small length of jumper wire for the 1,000VDC (HV transformer) version The high voltage can be turned on by plugging the board in and using a jumper to connect pin # 1 to pin # 28 on U1. The neon light should be on, indicating high (about 1,000VDC) voltage! It will linger for a few moments after the board is unplugged. PART 5 , wire from the board to the crt socket : Use 20 gauge wire , 8 “ lengths , (or longer depending on where you want to mount crt , it will work ok with lengths of 12”) Solder a wire to K (next to Q10) for the CRT cathode Wire to F (wiper of P1) for the CRT focus Wire to A (wiper of P2) for the CRT anode Wire to G (next to Neon bulb) for CRT control grid Wire to X1 for CRT X1 plate Wire to X2 for CRT X2 plate Wire to Y1 for CRT Y1 plate Wire to Y2 for CRT Y2 plate Wire to f (near to R1) for CRT filament Wire to f for other CRT filament Part 6 Ok now you should be ready to fire up that crt , set P1 - P5 in the middle position of their adjustment . Now set P7 (side adjust) 75% (3/4) to the left (counter clockwise), set P6 (side adjust) 75% (3/4) right (clockwise). Use a short piece of hookup wire that will fit snugly in the IC socket 's pin sockets , and connect pin # 28 on U1 to pin # 20 on U1. Use another jumper wire to connect pin #8 and #26 on U1. Plug in the AC power cord and in a few minutes, if it is working, you will begin to see a blob or dot in about the middle of the screen. Adjust P1 until the spot is as round as it can get. Adjust P2 until it is as sharp as it can get . Readjust P1 Unplug the cord . Now plug in the two IC’s marked “4132“ into the sockets U18 & U17, being careful to NOTE the orientation (the notch should be "up", or towards the middle of the board) Plug the AC power cord back in. Adjust P6 & P7 (side adjust) to their middle positions . You should see the spot again , center it & readjust P1 & P2 for the best focus / roundest spot . Now unplug the power cord , and insert the IC marked 12f629 into socket U20. Plug power cord back in, and when the spot reappears, watch for it to move a slight bit left / right up / down. This means the shifter is working. Unplug the power again , and insert the chip marked "7528" ( 20 pin ) into U16, noting the proper orientation, and the biggest chip marked 18f26K20 into U8. Power up again, & this time push S2 once, now you should see the clock face. Adjust P4 & P5 to the desired size, then readjust P1 & P2 to the best possible focus. The Wifi module assembly: R1 - 1K resistor R2 & R3 are 10K resistors R4 - 2.2K ohm resistor C1 - 10uF, 6.3 - 50V electrolytic capacitor Q1 - 2N3904 NPN transistor U1 - 1700 3.3VDC regulator LED C2 - 104 (.1uF) capacitor S1 - tactile pushbutton (normally open) switch 8 - pin socket for module 5 pin header to plug into 5 pin socket on main baord Insert Wifi module aligned with outline on board.